How to make ice with REALice

A. Building ice with REALice on existing ice

First, increase the ice temperature to make it easier to shave the ice. Shave the ice to just above lines and/or advertising. After finishing shaving, return to the normal ice temperature.

Empty the Ice Resurfacer from normal water. Fill the Ice Resurfacer with ONLY REALice-treated water.

Make sure the static pressure (minimum 45 psi / 3.1 bar for the R10X, 55 psi / 3.8 bar for the R12X) and the flow are correct for your system size. In order to get the best effect, the tap must be opened fully to get as much flow as possible. Only use un-heated water.

Add water in thin layers. Adding a layer of water with the Ice Resurfacer should take about 10–12 minutes (Olympic size), 8–10 minutes (NHL size). Drive slowly in the corners to avoid the water being thrown out in the corners and building up dikes.

Turn off the water in places where you will pass several times, such as behind the net.

After flooding the ice once, wait until the water is frozen. Repeat the above procedure until you have built some extra 10–15mm or ½″–¾″. The total thickness should be about 30mm or 1¼″.

B. Building new ice with REALice

Use the REALICE hand unit only with cold water. The water should be added in thin layers. There will be more water coming out from the unit than it seems to — never stand still, move slowly backward, from the short side to short side.

Point the unit at about 45° upwards and move it constantly from one side to the other. Divide the rink into 5 parts until the ice is done. Allow the water to freeze before the next layer is applied.

Repeat this by going the other way, from the long side to the long side. Divide the rink into 10 parts. You need to build approximately 10mm or ½″ until the ice is strong enough to use the ice machine.

When building the ice, some minerals and lime in the water will settle on the surface. When you have reached the right height of the ice — about 30mm or 1.20″ if you build from start, or about 10–15mm, 0.40–0.60″ REALice-ice if you are building on old ice — you dry-shave the top layer to remove the impurities and smooth the ice.

You then perform the finishing touch on the ice by applying 1–2 layers of REALice water with the Ice Resurfacer.

Check the ice temperature. Normally you can raise the temperature at least about 2–5°F in relation to your former ice temperature. Ideally, this should be done in steps, by raising the temperature 1–1.5°F at a time.

Wait about a week — the ice needs to stabilize before you raise the temperature another step. Repeat this until you feel that the ice is no longer good. Then lower the ice brine temperature one degree.

In some circumstances, it may be necessary to add some warm water. This is seen more when there is very cold water near 40°F and/or if the brine temp either has not been reset upwards or if there are inconsistencies in resetting the brine temperature. Try adding a little warm water (REALice treated) at a time, if you do not get good results with only cold water.

Note: The recommended unit installation is to allow hot/cold mixing. This can help with the rate of freezing, as does confirm accurate control of brine temperature.

C. Water temperature

Normally, REALICE is used with only cold water. In some circumstances, it may be necessary to add some warm water. Try this by adding a little warm water at a time, if you do not get good results with only cold water.

Normally the water temperature never needs to exceed 18°C, 64°F.

D. Water Pressure

• Minimum static pressure: 45 psi for the R10X, 55 psi for the R12X
• City water is usually 45–60 psi, so measure yours, especially for an R12X
• Avoid trickle-filling the ice resurfacer — the pressure is needed to guarantee the REALice treatment of the water
• Keep the pipe after the REALice the same size as the pipe going in — do not reduce it

E. Resurfacing Tank

Fill with only REALice treated water.

F. Humidity

High humidity creates rime on the ice and therefore produces more snow. To obtain optimal ice, the humidity in the ice arena should not exceed 50–55%. Also, very low ambient temp (less than 50°F), especially if the temp approaches the dew point, can cause fogging and frost/rime on the ice.

G. Do not mix water!

Normal water and REALice-water have different properties and should not be mixed. The different waters have different freezing characteristics and various ice crystals. A mix of water will give you poor ice quality and higher energy consumption.

H. REALice water

The effect of REALice treatment lasts at least 24 hours. This means that you can fill up the ice resurfacing machine in the evening before the next day's work.

I. Wash water

The wash water in the ice resurfacer may need to be slightly warmer (20°C/68°F), and not cooled by the re-circulating water, to prevent it from clogging. Wash water doesn't need to be REALice treated water — or can use REALice but need to use mixing to make it warm.

J. Typical ice thickness is about 30mm, or 1.25″

The REALice-ice is usually clearer than ordinary ice, which makes it difficult to estimate ice thickness. Make it a habit to regularly check that the ice has not become too thick. Thicker ice can use considerably more energy from your chillers. It is generally sufficient to have an ice thickness of about 30mm or 1.25″. 10mm/0.40″ of extra ice is equivalent to 18 m³ / 193.75 ft² of ice to keep frozen during the whole season.

K. Gates and doors

Make it a habit to always close gates and doors to both the arena and the ice rink. Depending on weather conditions, large amounts of warm and moist air go into the rink — with higher energy costs and poor ice quality as a result — if a gate or door remains open longer than necessary. If there is an option, an airlock is preferred.

L. Ice temperature (adjusting ice temperature/brine temp and the snowball test)

The ice has only one temperature range where it's best. If the ice is too warm it becomes soft and tough. If too cold, the ice becomes dry and brittle and builds up a lot of snow. The optimal range is different from rink to rink — each one is unique.

The best way to find the optimal range is to raise ice temperature in small increments, about 1–1.5°F (0.25 to 0.50°C) at a time, and then wait a couple of days.

During this time, study the ice quality. Repeat until you feel the ice quality is too bad, then lower the ice temperature one step.

Is there accurate automatic control of the brine temp? How is brine temp for the specific rink measured/controlled?

M. Ice Resurfacing

Ice made of REALice-treated water is more durable than ordinary ice — it does not get as many, or as deep, scars and injuries compared to regular ice. This also means the water added at each resurfacing usually can be reduced. Please be observant of the amount of water so you do not spend too much. Try your way into a good adjustment. It's important that you shave the ice, not only "collect" the snow — it's always better to shave more than less. Always have a good, sharp blade installed.

N. One change at a time

An ice rink is complex, where many components contribute to the overall perceived quality and energy consumption. It requires substantial experience and expertise to get into really good ice. When you make changes and tune the ice rink after installing a REALICE system, it is important to make just one change at a time so you can see exactly what the adjustment achieved. There is a certain delay in the ice after an adjustment — wait at least a few days before taking further adjustments.

• Ice thickness
• Resurfacing temperature
• Humidity
• Spectators' ice temperature
• Outside temperature
• Arena temperature / sun loading
• Amount of water
• Compressor — brine temp setting

Check out this article: Making Ice with R1x REALice Handheld →